Monday, February 4, 2019

Farm Sweet Farm - Week Two!!


Good morning farm sweet farmers!!



I hope y'all are ready for
 Week Two of the 



We are using the 





And Farm Girl Vintage fabric ...



To make the Farm Sweet Farm Quilt:)

Every week right here on my blog
 I will have the tutorial for
 one or two of the blocks.

The sew along schedule is on 
page 1 of the Sew Along Guide.

If you are just joining us and 
need to download the guide...



The first block tutorial 
for this week is the sheep:)

Farm Sweet Farm 
Sew Simple Shapes 
that you will need are:
1 - H1
1 - H4
4 - H11
6 - H15
1 - H16
1 - H25
1 - H36



From your spool of prepared 
flower stem strips cut a
 7" and a  5 1/2" long strip.



*Take note that this cute little
 baby chick that is catching a ride
 on the sheep will need to be
 traced in reverse because he is 
facing the other way and 
looking at the rooster 
who is riding on the goat:)



Sew and trim all of your appliqués...
but before turning clip the cleavage ares
 on the sheep body...
the baby chick and flower:)



Use the turning tool to shape them 
and then give them all a quick press.

Don't forget to zig zag or serge
 the edges of the linen background.



Before you lay out your pieces 
for appliqué you will need to 
trace the embroidery swirls onto the sheep 
and also mark where the eyes go:)
Use the Easy Trace Light Box 
and page 18 of the sew along guide.

Whenever there is embroidery on a shape...
I like to embroider it first
 before I applique it down.

I trace the embroidery that is on 
the linen after I have laid out
 my shapes and then I do that
 embroidery part at the 
same time that I applique.



I used 3 strands of the 
Nutmeg Aurifloss and did a backstitch
 for the wooly swirls:)

I used all 6 strands of aqua 
and did a french knot with 
2 twists for the eyes:)

After embroidery I start pinning
 all of the shapes onto
 the background that I have laid out 
on a large design board.

Take note when laying out your pieces
 that the sheep block is taller than wider...
(just so you know when placing
 your linen on the design board)



Here is a close up of how long
 the legs are finished.
You will need to trim some off
 the top just like 
you did for the pig block.



There is about 1" between 
the foot and back legs.


Also...from the bottom of the feet
 to the top of the baby chicks head...
it measures about 8 1/2"

The sheep block finishes at 10" wide 
so you do NOT want to layout 
your pieces any wider than 9 1/2"

After you have pinned 
everything into place...


It's time for the Sue Glue!!



Just like I showed you in 
last weeks video...
I just lift up each piece 
while the pin is still 
keeping it in place and put
 a few drops of glue there.

if you missed the video
 or need a refresher:)



Then I remove the pins and place
 a ruler that will cover the shapes
 and put something heavy on the ruler
so that the pieces can be 
nice and flat while the glue sets....
and then I applique!



After I applique I press from
 the back only and trim it up.

Trim up the sheep block 
10 1/2" wide and 11 1/2" tall.

After trimming...
sew on the Cute Little Buttons
 for the flower centers:)
I embroidered the baby chick 
just like the one in the
 horse block last week:)



YaY!
I love this swirly wooly sheep!!



Back view...



Front view:)

Now put your sheep in your 
"fun and done"
 pile to keep company with
 the horse and pig while you 
make the goat...bunny and rooster!


Grab your pre-cut Goat Block Kit
 and let's do this!
Sew Simple Shapes needed are:
4 - H4
1 - H10
4 - H11
12 - H15
1 H-18
1 - H21
1 - H26
4 - H36



You will need to cut the 
following lengths from your
 stem spool for all of the flower stems:

9" - 8" - 6 1/2" - 5" - 4"
 and two 3"

Run the 5/8" x 8" strip that I 
had you cut from the Cinnamon Circles 
print through the 1/4" bias tape maker.
When you press it...
press it into a slight curve.

Even though it's not cut on the bias...
because it is so narrow and 
only a slight curve it 
will not be a problem.
Press under each end 
and you will use one end 
for the beard and one end for the tail:)



Now grab your traced shapes...



Pair them up with the fabric 
they belong to and sew!



After you have trimmed all of
 your pieces it's time to 
turn and shape them.

You will need to clip all of the
 inner curve and cleavage areas 
in the shapes that you see here 
laying on my cutting mat 
and not the design board.



Turning and shaping the bunny 
may scare you a little so I 
just want to show you how easy it is!

This is how I cut my 
interfacing before turning.


After turning it looks a little crazy
 but this is where your 
handy dandy shaping tool
 comes to the rescue!


Simply use it to shape each section 
of the bunny separately...



And press each section as you shape it.

In this photo...
I only have the underbelly to press now 
so I flip the interfacing under and press!



Easy peasy!



And the back is nice and flat.

Cut the H10 shape in half to 
use for the other bunny ear:)



Now you are ready to grab a 
large design board for the pinning!



The goat block measures 
 19" wide finished...
so keep in mind when you are pinning
 your pieces that you do NOT
 want them wider than 18 1/2"

The measurement from the top of
 the rooster (that means the top of the embroidered part) 
to the bottom of the goat's feet 
is a little under 10" tall.



The goats legs are about 1 3/4" tall.



About 1" apart between the 
front legs to the back legs:)

After pinning...
Sue Glue it!



Heavy stuff while glue dries.



After my glue dried 
but before I appliquéd...
I wanted to show you how I 
embroidered the goats horns:)

I used all 6 strands of the 
Nutmeg Aurifloss and first did
 a backstitch outlining one horn.

Then I started what I call 
"fill in stitches" 
which are just long stitches 
that go up and down 
in different lengths....



Until the entire horn is filled in.



Then I start on the next horn
 and do the same thing:)



The comb and wattle on the rooster
 is done the exact same way...
except using red of course:)
When it comes time for the hens...
they are done the same as well. 



I use 3 strands of the dark gray 
for the legs beak and eye.


After the embroidery and applique is completed...
you will need to 
trim up your block to measure 
19 1/2" wide and 11 1/2" tall.


Save sewing on the Cute Little Buttons
 until after you have 
trimmed up the block because 
you want to be able to lay 
your ruler flat onto the block 
when trimming.


Be sure to add a white 
Cute Little Button for the bunny tail!


Front view...


Back view:)


This is a happy block and I love it!


Now you have the tutorials for
two more Farm Sweet Farm Blocks...
but remember to sew at 
your own speed and convenience.
The tutorials will always 
be here for your reference 
and this is not a race! 


The tutorials for the first four blocks 
are completed so far 
and that is the entire top row!

You can sew them into a row
 if you want as soon as you
 have all four finished...
or wait until you have all of 
the blocks completed and 
assemble the entire quilt then...
its up to you of course:)

Take note that after you 
sew this row together it should measure:
11 1/2" tall x 55 1/2" wide

When you post your blocks on
make sure to type the hashtag 
along with your post so that we 
can ALL SEE and inspire and support 
each other along the way:)



If you are just joining us...
to go back to the Week One tutorials

I'll see you back here next week 
for the Farmers Daughter Block tutorial:)
xx
Lori 








1 comment:

  1. This is my first sew along with your tutorials, although I have longed to join in with previous ones... I was skeptical about the Sue Glue working well. All my experiences with glue on fabric previously was not pretty. But omg! This stuff is amazing. I don’t think i’ll ever use another glue for appliqué! Thanks for sharing your talent and recommendations to us! ❤️

    ReplyDelete