Thursday, October 15, 2015

BLOOM Sew Simple Shapes - Traditional Hand Applique Method Tutorial!

Hi there!!!
Today I'll be talking about appliquéing by hand...
using my Sew Simple Shapes
Yesterday I posted a tutorial about
using them with the iron-on appliqué method.
if you want to see that tutorial:)

I'm so excited that my 
 are finally here and
 available to play with!

I love appliqué and I have found 
over the years that 
some think it can be hard
and so they are afraid to try it.

Because of this...
 I decided to design a line of shapes
to use for appliqué so that 
I can show you how 
easy and fun it really is!

Appliqué can add so much 
to your sewing skills. 
Not only can it 
add personality 
to your projects...
I especially love appliqué 
mixed with pieced quilt blocks!

Everyday this week...
 I'll be posting to show you
 how to use my 
Sew Simple Shapes
 in several 
different appliqué methods.

This is what they look like
 in their cute little package:)
I named my first set 
because the shapes are flowers,
 leaves and petals:)
The set has 24 fun shapes 
to mix and match 
for super cute and
 easy applique designs!

For this week...
I'll be using shape A-12 to make a 
"SEED" block.
This is a traditional 
appliqué block with many names,
 but my grandma and great aunts 
always called this shape
 a I will too!
Each day this week 
while making a block...
I will be using a different method
 each time so that you
 can choose your favorite!
I designed a line a fabric called 
Calico Days
 to go along with my BLOOM set.
It will be here in December...
Just in time to start my 
BLOOM Sew Along in January!
We will be making the above quilt...
one block at a time ...
every Monday 
right here on my blog!

But for this weeks
I'll be using this
 super cute fabric collection
called Fancy and Fabulous!

To cut fabric for the SEED blocks
for each tutorial and method this week... 
I cut 5" squares from the prints and
I cut 7 1/2" x 7 1/2" 
squares for the background.
(I'll later square them up to 6 1/2" square)
I always cut my appliqué background 
1" larger than needed
 because the appliqué process
 can shrink your blocks a little ...
so I like to appliqué first 
and then
 square up the block afterwards.

Let's get started!
For my method of hand appliqué
 I have always used
 freezer paper as a tool 
to get the pattern 
onto the fabric.
You could skip the freezer paper
 but I love to use it...
I explain why below:)

Simply trace around the
 A-12 template onto the 
freezer paper 
(on the paper side) 
four times.
*NOTE - you could obviously just
 trace around the shape
 directly onto the fabric...
but I like to use freezer paper 
for this step for a few reasons:

1. I like to prepare all 
of my appliqué pieces 
at once, so I love the way
 that the paper keeps them
 nice and flat without
 wrinkling until it's 
time to appliqué it.
Just put prepared shapes
 in your baggie, basket, tin etc. 
and they remain just like
 you prepared them 
with no "re-pressing" needed.

2. The paper makes it easier 
to trim the 1/4" seam allowance
 because it's sturdy.

3. If you are glue basting...
the paper makes this step easier.

4. You can write on the paper
 to label when necessary 
to keep your pieces organized.

With that being said...
let's get back to the freezer paper!
Cut them out directly 
onto your traced line.

Now press them onto the
of your chosen fabric:)

Use a mechanical pencil to
 trace around each shape.
This is how you get the shape
 onto the fabric...
easy peasy!

Then cut out each shape
 leaving approximately
 1/4" seam allowance.

Prepare your background
 by pressing in half both ways
 and on the diagonal both ways.

Place a seed shape in 
one corner of the background...
making sure that the 
points line up with the
 diagonal pressed lines.

If you like to use
 glue instead of pins...
use it sparingly.
Just a few small 
dots will do it!
Keep the shape in place
 and just lift one side at a time.

After the glue is dry...
remove the paper.
P.S. I like to use 
Busyfingers Appliqué Glue 
by Sue Daley.

If you like to use pins...
make sure that they are 
appliqué pins because they 
are short and won't stab you
 or catch your threads 
while you are appliquéing:)

I usually use glue but pins
 definitely have their place.
Once your pieces are on
 the background you're
 ready to start stitching!

A good straw needle is a
 great tool for hand appliqué.
They are long ...
which you need because
 it is your tool to 
turn under your seam allowance.
They are also thin so that
 allows for a tiny stitch:)
I recommend starting 
with a size 10 and
 working your way to a size 11.

I always use 
100% cotton thread...50 weight.
Aurifil is my absolute favorite!
I match my thread to my
 applique shape...
 NOT the background.

Start with about 18" of thread 
and knot one end.
You will be using a single thread...
not double.

I'm starting with the yellow piece 
so I pinned the other 3 
out of the way where 
the seam allowances overlap.

Bring your thread up under 
the back of the appliqué shape...
NOT the background.

Bring your needle up
 right on the marked line.

Use the side of your needle
 to turn under the seam allowance ...
only a little at a time as you go...
about 1/2" at a time.
Hold down seam allowance 
that you have turned under with 
your thumb on left hand 
so that you can stitch 
with your right hand.
(reverse that if you are left handed)
Sorry I wasn't able to 
get a pic of this but 
I don't have three hands

Here's a side view...
pencil mark should be 
on the side so it 
won't show on the top.

Stitch straight down
 taking a small bite of 
your appliqué edge and 
going to the back of 
the background where 
your thread travels underneath 
to the next stitch.

Here's what the back looks like.
You can see the long traveling
 stitches along the back.

This is what my left hand 
looks like when I'm stitching...
my needle would obviously 
be held by my right hand 
if I wasn't taking this picture:)

Keep stitching towards the seed points...

And take an extra stitch 
in the corner to secure.

Then simply use the 
side of your needle to
 "sweep" the seam allowance 
under and change direction.

One down and 3 to go!

Another view of the back:)
Knot your thread off 
in the back behind the 
appliqué shape so 
it won't show on the front.

Fun and Done!!!

Now you can square up 
your block with a
 6 1/2" square up ruler.
I always PRESS (don't iron)
 my hand appliqué blocks 
from the back...
 so the front pieces 
will not be distorted.

I LOVE hand appliqué 
and have designed, 
made and taught my method 
using my patterns
 for many years.
 I don't have as much time 
to hand appliqué anymore
 because of my 
busy designing schedule....
and I have really missed it.

That is exactly why I 
decided to do my 
Sew Simple Shapes 
along with a 
faster method for appliqué!!!

The BLOOM is just the first
 in a series that
will be released over time.
I plan to use my appliqué designs 
along with my pieced block patterns
 that I love to design as well...
for even more quilty fun!

if you want a set of my 
BLOOM Sew Simple Shapes 
of your own to play with:)

Tomorrow I'll show you 
my very favorite way to use my
 Sew Simple Shapes.
It's easy machine applique!
It's simple and quick and 
 I LOVE the results!!! 
See you then...


krislovesfabric said...

Thanks so much for putting the time into all these pics, great tutorial!!

allthingzsewn said...

Very easily understood tutorial, even I got it first time around. Gonna try it. What size stray needle for the 50 wt. thread? Have a great day and remember to enjoy it.

Donna said...

Love the matching nail polish! and the shapes, and the bloom quilt. Will need to do this one for sure!

elnorac said...

Thanks so much for this wonderful tutorial, Lori! I look forward to using your cute, clever shapes. What a time saver they'll be!

Rosemary B❤️ said...

I have never done hand applique
Thank you Lori for sharing this.
You are as always, WONDERFuL

Little Quiltsong said...

Lori, thank you for showing this method of hand appliqueing. Years and years ago, when I was in my youth :) - a church member wanted to make a quilt for all who were in the youth group. Our mothers had to hand applique - in my case the petals and tulip heads - the chosen designs and then this member hand quilted all the quilts. Though I knew how much work was involved - each time I'm still amazed at the hours of work and love that was poured into these quilts. After your tutorial, I just might have to sit down and do some hand appliqueing and walk a while in the shoes that walked before me!!

Jackie said...

Thank you for the excellent tutorial!

Lesley Gilbert said...

Thanks for your daily tutorials - it was interesting to see your 3 different ways. I'm looking forward to next weeks offerings :)

Tina said...

I am DEFINATELY going to try this! I've used the starch method before and sheesh! By the time I trace the pattern, brush on the starch, iron the fabric around the template paper, wait for it to dry, pull the template out of the piece, center it on the background, glue it down, and THEN start stitching, I'm ready for bed! Thank you for this simple method - Giant Hugs to You! I can't wait to try it!!!!

Jerri said...

Thank you for this helpful tutorial! I have needed to see one for a while and yours has helped me tremendously! I now feel my applique is going to look so much better.

Unknown said...

Lori, Thank you sew much for the tutorial! Don't we all wish we had three hands at times! My mother taught me this method when I was around ten years old. I needed a refresher and now will think of my mother every time I needle turn!! Blessings!

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